Manon Renault, independant journalist and sociologist, documents the Mensweek for Futur404, through a series of analysis with no bullshit.
Let go of your phones, the lights are dark, your hands are frozen, it’s time to watch the show! A message that seems to have reached its climax during Glenn Marteens’ presentation for Y / Project during Pitti Uomo. In the night, flashes are forbidden. At Hed Mayner, the corridors do not offer enough perspective to instagram the models, while the silver hands of Sankuanz‘s models become the metaphor of an impossibility of being content with touch. Olivier Saillard puts forks, knives and wines in the hands of guests who, while seated, listen to a presentation / performance at random. From Kim Kardashian to Lacan, Olivier Saillard presents J.M. Weston shoes in a moment outside of social networks. The in vivo network of fashion is present to attend a mirror show of our own condition: what do we really reveal about us on social networks? Public confessions or stagings of the intimately ingeniously calculated? Olivier Saillard offers a story strewn with snatches of lives, those of shoes, artists, and his in Gainsbourg’s rhythms of influence. If Saillard shows that the boxes and the structures do not suit him, he submits brilliantly to the exercise of the presentation which turns into exercise of style. Who will find the right hashtag to post this?
Leather, vinyl nylon and leggings: the return of fetishism?
Between the stiffness of the leather, the raw denim and the plastic that sticks to the skin, the dress styles of this first day can be read as the corollaries of styles borrowed by the sexual sub-cultures that divert the paradigms of virility. All cultural stereotypes are part of the show: the cowboy, the young explorer, or the squatting waiter under the table at J.M. Weston by Olivier Saillard. In this story, Heron Preston is the first young fetishized. If he diverts the security anxieties of frequent travelers in a grammar that combines leather and utilitarian clothing, he does not do it in the presence of anyone. Virgil Abloh and Marcelo Burlan are front raw. An information widely relayed. Proof that the presence of Abloh becomes in itself a media event that validates the legitimacy of a parade and allows to project stylistic fantasies on the figure of the first young and distracts the attention of the garment.
Jacquard, and Dogtooth: end of the vintage?
Faced with the idealization of images of masculinity comes the in vivo destruction of its bourgeois attributes, rediscovered under the label “vintage”. The jacquard sweaters and dogtooth are in tatters at CMMN SWDN, the trench and Duffle Coat holes at Sankuanz. The worn garment is the support of a revolt speech, well before Cobain and Grunge (Dick Hebdiges in the sense of style brings an indispensable archeology on the issue). Martin Margiela institutionalized it in the early 1980s. From then on, a so-called post-modern fashion became the fable of a world where the Platonic conception of beauty is no longer the vector of illusions and expectations.