After we had the pleasure to attend his SS16 runway show, we wanted to pay tribute to the avant-garde designer Issey Miyake, through a highlight of his 5 most spectacular innovations, on the occasion of the Tokyo National Art Center exhibition dedicated to the designer from March 16th to June 13th.
birth of a legend
Issey Miyake always explored new methodologies and ways to create its clothing. It all started in 1960, when he was studying graphic arts at the Tama Art University, he wrote a letter to the International Design Seminar that was happening for the first time in Japan. He pointed out that clothing creation was not part of the Seminar. Already at that time, Miyake considered clothing not just as a trend, something that changes with time, but rather as a form of creation closely linked to our lives in a more universal way. Miyake has continously explored the relation between fabric, body and the space that follows, always thinking outside the box. With his team of designers, he always invest in research and development in order to create garments combining innovation and comfort.
Miyake’s textile innovations
80’S: THE CARVED BUSTIERS & CASCADE DRESS
In the 80’s, Miyake worked on enhancing the body through new types of textiles and clothing. The legacy from his work:
- Creation of Carved Bustiers, created from real torsos, thanks to the infusion of synthetic resin,
- The Cascade Dress made in Pewlon and modeled on the body, thanks to the infusion of silicone and usage of only one piece of fabric.
1980-1990: INNOVANTIVE MATERIALS
Issey Miyake assumes any material can be transformed into a garment. For example, he used washi (Japanese paper), horsehair or raffia.
1993: PLEATS PLEASE
Issey Miyake developed a special pleats, the “garment pleating”, made after the assembly of the garment, creating neat and defined lines. The pleats let Miyake work with forms that, when flat, give off an almost abstract quality (stairs, a circle, a UFO) playing with the space between the garment and the body.
A-POC is a revolutionary process developed by Miyake in collaboration with Dai Fujiwara in 1998, allowing to manufacture a garment integrally by producing a piece of knitting, eliminating almost all cut outs by limiting cutting and stitching. First knitted then woven, A-POC is a revolutionary invention with only one piece of fabric.
2010: 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE
Launched in 2010, 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE was developed in Miyake’s Reality Lab, a multidisciplinary ideas lab. Starting from the idea of using recycled polyester and techniques inspired by algorithms, a new kind of clothing was born: garments that can be totally fold into flat geometrical forms, and coming to life through the movements of the body of those who unfold and wear them.
Post written by Tali Fitoussi, Editor
Graduate student from IFM Paris, Tali is passionate about fashion and technology. Involved in valuable collaborations and internships at global companies like L’Oréal or Condé Nast, she helped organizing a conferences sessions at IFM Paris, and joined Clausette Magazine in September 2015.