PFW | Teching up the pleats at Issey Miyake

Last week, we were delighted to be invited at the Issey Miyake SS16 show. In Les Tuileries, Paris, we discovered the new collection of the inexhaustible explorer Miyake. The innovative designer has opened up new horizons for making clothes through research, experimentation and development while reimagining the relationship between the human body and clothing. Placing a high value on fostering various human resources and innovative technologies in the industry since the foundation of the brand, he is one of our favorite designers.

The SS16 collection was inspired by the lively tropical plants, based on the theme “Botanical Delights,” and expressed bright colors and forms with the new “Baked Stretch” technique.

Botanical Delights

35Always in the experimentation, Miyake seeks to create clothing with new tastes and forms. A Piece Of Cloth can be steamed or baked and emerge in a newly fresh and delicious texture. Seasoned with spices, colors and shapes appear, inspired by the lush vitality of the tropical jungle – transforming the daily act of dressing into a sensuous and surprising experience.

Tech up my pleats, please


Combining natural materials with technology, Miyake creates a new fabrication technique. The ‘‘3D Steam Stretch’’ uses steam heat to shrink thread, continues to evolve thanks to the use of natural materials and ample color variations. From shirts and jackets using ultra-thin paper thread made from plant fibers; to colorful t-shirts that look as if they had been jersey-woven. Miyake continues its research and development on various materials to create comfortable, lightweight and easy to care for clothing in order to suit our modern lifestyles.

A new type of pleats has been created from a new and innovative process, called ‘‘Baked Stretch’’. With this technique, a special glue is first printed onto the fabric and then baked. The glue expands under the high temperature, thereby molding the pleat into the fabric, permanently pressing the garment and maintaining its form. Just like baking bread inside an oven, the fabric is placed inside a baking machine and the glue expands to create a pleated garment. This season, the brand added prints of colorful curves as a compliment to the fabric to evoke the essence of the tropical flora.



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