Iris van Herpen’s Aeriform Celebration

A glimpse into her 10th anniversary Couture Show

5 min read

This morning, to celebrate her label’s 10th anniversary, IVH welcomed us to a both singular and innovative ode dedicated to two unseizable yet fascinating elements: air and water. The show was quite mesmerizing, with a heavy anxiety athmosphere.

Finale @irisvanherpen #irisvanherpen #hautecouture #couture #pfw #paris #fashion #aeriform

Une publication partagée par clausette.cc (@clausette.cc) le

Titled Aeriform, the collection by IVH drew inspiration from a Danish underwater artists band called Between Music, whose take on Music and creation motivated the designer to challenge the relationship between the body and its elemental surroundings.

Their liquide voices and the subsonic darkness from Between Music overwhelmed me. It motivated me to dive into the contrasts between water and air, between outside and inside, between light and darkness.Iris Van Herpen.

 

Details @irisvanherpen #backstages #aeriform #couture #pfw Une publication partagée par clausette.cc (@clausette.cc) le

The 18 elaborate silhouettes serve as a creative answer to the examination of the nature and anatomy of air, from the idea of airborne materiality and lightness, to creating positive and negative space through the use of the contrast between light and shadow.

With biomorphic structures designed in collaboration with Philip Beesley, and partnerships with brands like Swarovski and MAC Cosmetics, this show marked the 10th anniversary of a vibrant and avant-gardiste brand that we’re really fond of.

Backstage details @irisvanherpen #irisvanherpen #couture #aeriform #pfw

Une publication partagée par clausette.cc (@clausette.cc) le

As shown above, the Aeriform dress, worn by Korean model & influencer Soo Joo and made in collaboration with Philip Beesley, was made of a voluminous feathery light metal lasercut lace that has been cut in geodesic floral patterns. Then, it was 3D molded by hand and assembled with heat shrinkable sleeves. At the end, it was stitched to an invisible tulle dress.

From left to right: first dress, organza dress, Biomimetic Gown. Credit: drawings from the Iris van Herpen Couture 10th Anniversary.

From left to right: first dress, organza dress, Biomimetic Gown. Credit: drawings from the Iris van Herpen Couture 10th Anniversary.

Mastering the art of blending traditional craft with modern techniques and materials, van Herpen explained how the pieces were made on printed drawings. Here, we chose our three favorites dress:

  • The first one was to the dress opening the show, worn by Soo Joo. It is made of a laser cut white cotton that is fused to mylar and heat-bonded onto transparent tulle in see-through rippling line patterns,
  • The second one is a gradational moiré-printed organza that is hand-pleated and hand-stitched to an invisible tulle dress,
  • And the last, which might be my favorite one, is called the Biomimetic Gown. It is made of a changeant silver lace that was laser cut into thousands of thin stretchy lines, that were then hand-stitched into 3 dimensional wave patterns.

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